María Luisa Park, Sevilla

The scent of orange blossoms in the spring is a fragrance that lingers with me from our meanderings around our favourite city of  Sevilla.  So it isn’t surprising that we would be drawn to María Luisa Park, the mother lode of parks, in a city with many welcoming gardens and parks.  It is a majestic and tranquil green space surrounded by the vibrant city of Sevilla.  We have spent many luxurious afternoons in María Luisa Park, just sitting by the water or visiting one of the incredible museums that grace its premises.

Princess María Luisa donated half of her own gardens from the San Telmo Palace to the city in 1893.  The gardens were inaugurated in 1914.  Special attention was paid to the design and layout of the plants, flowers and large shade trees, the ever-present fountains and pools, the ceramic benches and floral urns and the many monuments dedicated to illustrious names from the past. The Glorieta de Bécquer, a tribute to the romantic Sevillian poet, is found in a secluded circle of trees, a sculpture of allegorical figures representing the many phases of love. A fitting tribute for the most romantic city in Spain. The park is also an important botanical garden with a considerable wealth and diversity of species.  It extends over 2100 acres and contains around 1000 palm trees and more than 3000 trees of other species. In the centre is a lake graced by ducks, geese and swans with a lovely gazebo. 

When Seville was chosen to host the famous 1929 Spanish-American Exhibition, the new park provided space for the famous Plaza de España and the Plaza de América, both designed by the architect Aníbal González, as well as for the numerous pavilions, two of which now house the Museum of Arts and Popular Customs and the Archaeological Museum. 

At the time, the concept for the Plaza de España was revolutionary in providing a colonnaded public space in which the emphasis would be on its welcoming nature and pleasant environment, as a place to relax and socialize, rather than the busy commercial squares of old.  When we visited, the semicircle design literally felt like open arms welcoming you into their embrace.  This is even more amazing when you realize that the international fair was inviting people from South and Central America to come and discover their Spanish ancestry.  Bordering the Plaza is a canal crossed by footbridges that are adorned with balustrades of ceramics from the famous Triana tile-makers.  At the base of the semi-circle there are murals tiled by each province in Spain, illustrating historical episodes.  During the Exhibition, each Province provided brochures to the visitors about the area from which their forefathers originated.  Since it was such a touching experience for us, I wondered how the people from the Americas might have felt.

The Provincial Archaeological Museum, located in the Renaissance Pavilion, houses an impressive array of archaeological remains dating from prehistory through the end of the Muslim era, all discovered in Sevilla or in its immediate surroundings.  Among other items that it houses is the Treasure of Carambolo, a collection of gold coins from the 6th century BC Tartessian culture, as well as many Roman ruins found throughout the province, especially in the Italica region.

Located in the Mudejar Pavilion, visiting the Museum of Art and Popular Customs is an enlightening experience.  It is dedicated to the historical development of popular arts and traditions of Analucia, displaying more than 300 years of artwork, musical instruments, furniture, embroidery, and every day life of the Andalucian citizen.  The display of the posters used over the years to advertise Feria de Abril is revealing. Our favourite section is downstairs where there are workshops depicting the skilled artisans of ceramics, and wrought iron work, both so symbolic of Sevilla.  

When in Sevilla, a visit to María Luisa Park is a must!