We ‘discovered’ Almuñécar entirely by accident.  On our way to tour the caves in Nerja, we decided to take a turn off the highway into a pueblo blanco that we could see from the road, nestled between the mountains and the Sea.  Our drive through the old town and along the Mediterranean road conjured up all that we loved about Spain--the plazas overflowing with people of all ages, the outdoor cafes with three generations of a family all eating together, the promenade or paseo along the Sea going on forever filled with strollers of all nationalities.  We didn’t get out of the car that trip, but knew we had to come back.  The next year we came for 2 weeks, at the end of a 10 week journey throughout Spain.

Once we settled into our apartment, overlooking the Mediterranean and the paseo, smelt the sea air, listened to the waves lapping onto the shore, felt the sun and gentle breeze on our skin, viewed the softness of the light and the blueness of the sky, we felt as if we had come home. After many more lengthy visits, we still feel the same way.  It is no chiché to say our hearts are in Almuñécar.

Almuñécar, which also incorporates the neighbouring village of La Herradura, is situated in the heart of the Costa Tropical, where the land is so fertile, with its own micro-climate, that it produces rare exotic fruits, such as chirimoyas, avocados, and mangos, not grown anywhere else in Spain.  A fertile valley nestled between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea, with a dazzling blue sky and a turquoise sea.  A paradise that offers us natural beauty, dozens of beaches, coves, cliffs, inlets, tropical plants and colourful flowers. There is something for everyone in Almuñécar.

Wandering the streets of its old town, a white village on a hill, can give the visitor some pleasant surprises.  Its warm climate and little rain throughout the year, with average temperatures of 25C in summer and 18C in the winter, means that life in Almuñécar is lived in its squares, the narrow cobblestone streets with their old Arabic flavour, and in the bars and restaurants where one can enjoy the traditional local seafood fresh from the Mediterranean.  The restaurants on the Sea combine a sunset with drinks and the most delicious ‘menus del día’ for hours of socializing pleasure.  Since Almuñécar is in Granada province, you will be surprised by free tapas whenever you order a drink.  The bars and restaurants try and outdo each other with the originality and size of the tapas, so you can spend many delightful evenings tapa-hopping, never paying for a meal, and return home filled up with such delicacies as almejas en salsa de ajo (clams in a garlic sauce), gambas a la plancha (grilled shrimp), aceitunas (olives), jamón serrano, and pollo al ajillo (chicken in a garlic sauce).

Almuñécar, like other towns and cities in Southern Spain, exemplifies the culture we love so much. The town is built for people, not only for cars.  There are plazas and benches and beautiful landscaping just for enjoyment and gathering together.  Relationships and extended family are deeply valued by the Spaniards so it is not unusual to see multi generations eating together, walking along the paseo, or working together.  The Andalucian culture feels so alive and warm, and they obviously like people and children. It is a tangible feeling that is noticeable for most North Americans. They are extremely hard working, but seem to know how to balance their work, family, relationships and leisure, to experience and enjoy life at its fullest, in ways that have been an inspiration to us.  

Enjoying oneself in Almuñécar is very easy due to the diversity and contrasts of the different scenery and because the town offers a wide range of possibilities to every kind of tourist. There are many activities for sports enthusiasts such as launching-off points for hang gliders and ultra light planes, rock climbing, and gorge scrambling. The sea offers para-surfing, para-sailing, sailing, fishing and a luxurious marina. The rich variety of marine life is internationally valued by expert divers. There is horseback riding nearby as well as mountain hiking, especially in the Peña Escrita Park just north of the city.  And, of course, for walking enthusiasts, the paseo that stretches for miles and miles along the water, with bars, restaurants, stores and benches, means one can walk everywhere. Nothing beats the ‘people-watching’ along the paseo in Almuñécar.

Almuñécar was originally colonized by the Phoenicians from Asia Minor in the 8th century BC and they named her Sexi.  They converted her into an important trading post and port of the ancient Mare Nostrum, and its strategic position was the envy of all the diverse cultures who arrived on its coast.  The Romans settled the area next, then the Visigoths and the Moors. When the Romans arrived in the 3rd century BC, they found a well structured city with a thriving economy based on salted fish.

Traces of all these ancient cultures can still be seen in the monuments and important archaeological remains, such as the Roman aqueduct, the Phoenician necropolis of Puente de Noy, the Punic-Roman fish-salting factory, the Church of the Encarnación, and the Cave of the Seven Palaces.

One can view the natural landscape of Almuñécar from the San Miguel Castle, a formidable fortress which stands majestically in the historic centre of the city.  The Castle was assailed in 755 by Abd al-Rahmán, whose statue stands prominently by the water, and who later founded the Caliphate of Cordoba. The town was consolidated at the hands of the Moors, who converted the area into a major coastal city of the kingdom of Granada.

One can stroll through the amazing Botanical and Archaeological Gardens of Majuelo Park and view plants and trees from all the tropical zones in the world, as well as the remains of the fish salting factory. It is home to many fiestas and celebrations that welcome everyone to participate.  It is a joy and an honour to attend a holy day fiesta, a jazz festival, a fund-raising event for Cuba with a monumental paella or flamenco dancing and singing.

And the crowning glory is the ability to enjoy both sunrises and sunsets from the privacy of your own balcony overlooking the Sea, with a café con leche or a drink, depending on the time of day. And you will wonder how you will ever be able to leave.

More information and links for Almuñécar.  

Almuñécar map